Distance: 1980 km
Nr of days: 9
Year: 2014

A motorcycle journey from canyons to the beaches

Montenegro or Provence? That is the question ... I watch the weather.... there is no doubt Montenegro will be our next destination. The next day we start the journey across Croatia till Signe and then continue the next morning to Zadar along the coast.  Some cars apart, the landscape is amazing: the cliffs , the sea and the Kornati islands a natural reserve consisting of over 100 uninhabited islands . We run towards the border of Dubrovnik Croatia - Bosnia , at the motorway exit a marshy area where lots of kiosks in line sell catching colored fresh fruits.
We stop for lunch in a waterfront fish tavern. Here we meet a group of bikers from Como, we shared info about routes and then headed off to Montenegro. We choose to enter the internal border. We go up to the headland behind Dubrovnik, the view is spectacular and at the border there is no queue. Once in Montenegro , we go down to Hercegnovi but we miss the right way so we stop for a unusual turkish coffee in a bar where we were approached by four Italian guys who come from Serbia . They give us some useful info and again on bike towards the Ethno Village of Donja Brezna. If you are looking for quiet this is the place: surrounded by fields from it all, offers small wooden chalets and a hot plate in the main village decorated like the houses at the time of Tito .... a dive into the past.

Discovering the canyons: Piva and Tara

Breakfast at Zvodo, a little place on the shores of Piva Lake: jazz with toast jams & the excellent typical natural cranberry juice. Then riding the discovery of deep canyons and the Durmitor plateau across the road 14 towards Trsa . The view from the top is breathtaking but we must be careful of the road is very narrow and full of overhanging bends. We cross a couple of tunnel caves in the rock and then in front of us the plateau, an endless meadow with some farmhouses here and there.
We follow the way to the Black Lake (CRNA jazero) down to the valley for a dive into it and a glass of berries for just € 1.50 !! We arrive at Đurđevića Tara Bridge In the early afternoon where we decided to go rafting on the river Tara. The next day we continue to Podgorica alongside the canyon for a nice stretch along the E80. At the sign Dobrilovina turn left. We find a wonderful wooden monastery. A nun welcomes us and explains with gestures to follow her to visit the interior of the church .... I had to wear a long skirt and then finally we came in ..... simply wonderful! The morning light through the windows at the top touch all the frescoes , the gold sparkles and the burning candles in water as the Orthodox tradition. Photos are not allowed so I can only recommend you to visit it in person! Continuing we get closer to the capital, nothing special to report except a sultry heat and the sculptures of the TRANSFORMERS by Baletic.

Along the river towards the coast...

We left Podgorica towards Meterizi where we entered in a narrow street. Suddenly a fairytale landscape come in front of us: a river bend delimits a mountain and in the middle there's just us that look out from a balcony of an abandoned hotel and try to imagine what atmosphere had lived its guests long time ago.... reminds me a bit some glimpses of the Grand Hotel Budapest. Lunch in Rijeca Crnojevica a group of 12 houses with a couple of restaurants where you should stop for a grilled fish. Little further on the other loop, we met a local man who said his name was "fate" because he was born unexpectedly as second of twins. It sounds a bit “strange” as history but we decide to trust him as a reward for originality! He tells me a lot of things about his country, tourism, people he meets and gives me even a branch of rosemary for good luck ....
The route towards Petrovac, crossing the river delta area and the wineries of Crstac and Vrnac. Petrovac a small fishing village, ideal for relaxing time and a romantic dinner on the beach. Our way back along the coast starts in Sveti Stevan a paradise for elites; Budva famous for its vibrant nightlife, although the old town is also very characteristic. As we walk I hear my name, who is looking for me? The Italian guys we had met on the first day, we chat a bit ' to share routes and then we moved looking for food .

Lovocèn reserve and Croatian coast...

Another unmissable stops before leaving Montenegro are Cetinje and Kotor Bay. Cetinje  looks like a ghost town at first sight, but if you have the chance to meet Bogda - the Santa Claus of Montenegro - who works the iron dancing POP music you will think Cetinje as one of the funniest town! Here we also meet two girls who wear traditional cloths and discover that behind the main square there is a famous monastery where there seems to be preserved the hand of St. John the Baptist. From Cetinje we follow the serpentine through 32 hairpin bends of the Lovocen reserve that leads us to Kotor: bikers you cannot miss it!
Once in Kotor I recommend a stop at " Vinomania" for a plate of "hanging ham", then a coffee break at " Harmony" in Perast before leaving the cuntry.The following day many stops alongiside the Makaraska Riviera towards Split. Dubrovnik - Split route deserves unlike the next distance from Split to Zadar that does not offer much to riders. Between a dive and a swin we ended for lunch at Pisak Leut: a few tables and a barbecue by the sea! We spent the last night in Zadar  walking among the ruins of the ancient city, listening to the sound of the sea organ.

 

 

   POINTS OF INTEREST: Piva Canyon & Durmidor